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Could Périgueux Be Home? A Real Look at Living in This Dordogne City
If you’re curious about living in Périgueux, France you’re probably looking for more than a quick travel guide. You want to know what daily life actually feels like. Is it lively enough to keep things interesting, yet calm enough to enjoy the slower rhythm of life in France?
That’s exactly the question I asked myself while spending time here.
Périgueux sits in the heart of the Dordogne region in southwestern France, surrounded by rolling countryside, historic villages, and some of the best food markets in the country. It’s a small city, just under 30,000 people, but it carries centuries of history in its medieval streets and Roman roots.
At first glance it looks like the kind of place where life moves gently. Café terraces fill in the afternoon, locals wander the markets with woven baskets, and the golden limestone buildings glow in the evening light.
But what’s it really like to live here?
After spending time exploring the town, talking with locals, and imagining daily life here, here’s what stood out about living in Périgueux.
Quick Overview: Living in Périgueux
Living in Périgueux offers a balance between small-city convenience and the slower rhythm of the Dordogne countryside. With a population of just under 30,000, the city provides everyday amenities such as markets, cafés, healthcare and cultural activities including museus, while still feeling relaxed and manageable.
The historic centre is compact and walkable, and many daily errands can be done on foot. Residents enjoy easy access to surrounding villages, rivers and countryside landscapes that define life in this part of southwestern France.
For those considering relocation, Périgueux sits somewhere between a lively market town and a small regional city, offering history, culture and a strong sense of community without the pace or cost of larger urban centres.
Does Périgueux Have an International Community?
While Périgueux does have some international residents, its expat scene isn’t as large or as diverse as other French cities. There are Brits, of course (as there are in much of Dordogne), and a handful of Dutch and other Europeans, but it doesn’t feel like a place where people from all over the world have gathered to create a global community.
For us, a strong international presence means more than just English-speaking expats – it’s about having people from different backgrounds, cultures, and experiences. While Périgueux does have some international residents, it’s not quite as cosmopolitan as larger cities.
Does Périgueux Have a Thriving Arts Community?
Absolutely. If there’s one thing that draws me to Périgueux, it’s the art scene.
From events like Ruée vers l’Art, where 40+ artists showcase their work, to the abundance of galleries, workshops, and exhibitions, this is a city that celebrates creativity. It’s also home to incredible artists, like photographer Elisabeth Hermann, who works with cyanotype, bromoil, and collodion wet plate photography, and designer Marie-Paule Thuaud, whose contemporary jewelry is both intricate and bold.
The Musée d’Art et d’Archéologie du Périgord is a fantastic cultural hub, and there’s a real sense of artistic energy in the city. It’s not just a place that appreciates art—it’s a place where artists thrive.
If you’d like to read some more about the art scene in Perigueux then read my post Art and Travel in Périgueux: A City of Creativity and History
Is the Standard of Living High?
Yes. As the administrative center of the Dordogne, Périgueux has a good infrastructure, modern conveniences, and a comfortable standard of living. It has a mix of large grocery stores, independent shops, restaurants, medical facilities, and cultural attractions that make daily life enjoyable. And of course an art store!
The cost of living is also relatively reasonable compared to larger cities like Bordeaux or Toulouse, making it a comfortable place to live without breaking the bank.
Architecture and Atmosphere in Périgueux
One of the first things you notice about Périgueux is its architecture. The medieval, Renaissance and Roman influences make it a beautiful city to walk through. The half-timbered houses, grand stone facades, and narrow cobbled streets give it an almost fairy-tale quality.
The heart of the historic centre is the area around Cathédrale Saint-Front, a remarkable domed cathedral inspired by Byzantine architecture. Its pale stone domes rise above the rooftops and can be seen from many parts of the town.
The city has been actively working to increase its attractiveness since the early 2000s. Through its Public Space Enhancement Initiative, streets have been redesigned to favour pedestrians, public spaces cleaned up and the overall atmosphere made more welcoming.
Of course, not every building is historic, there are modern developments and apartment blocks, especially outside the medieval center, but the overall aesthetic of the city is undeniably charming.
You can really see the difference around the Cathédrale Saint-Front, where the streets have been redesigned with pedestrians in mind. The hardscaping has been redone, cobblestones relaid and several areas are now pedestrian-only.
Seating areas have been added, and the square has become a lovely gathering place for fêtes, markets, and everyday life. It makes for a welcoming town centre where people actually linger rather than rush through.
What struck me most is that Périgueux doesn’t feel like a tourist set piece. It’s very much a lived-in place, with locals going about their daily routines, chatting outside bakeries, or meeting friends at cafés.
The official tourism website for Périgueux is the best spot to check out the current list of events of which there are many.
That everyday rhythm is one of the things that gives the town its charm.
Is the Countryside Beautiful?
Yes! Périgueux is surrounded by rolling hills, green valleys, and the soft, picturesque landscapes that the Dordogne region is known for. It doesn’t have dramatic mountain views or a coastline, but it does offer lush countryside, scenic river walks, and a gentle, inviting landscape.
For photographers and artists, it’s endlessly inspiring – but we do love a bit of variety in landscapes, and Périgueux is definitely more soft and rolling than wild and dramatic.
What’s the Weather Like in Périgueux?
One of the most common questions people ask when considering a move to France is: What’s the weather like?
Périgueux has a temperate oceanic climate, meaning mild winters and warm summers. Here’s what to expect in each season:
🌸 Spring (March-May) – Highs range from 14°C to 20°C, with 8-9 rainy days per month.
☀️ Summer (June-August) – Warm and sunny, with highs between 24°C and 28°C, and only 5 rainy days per month.
🍂 Autumn (September-November) – Comfortable temperatures from 24°C in September to 13°C in November, with 5-9 rainy days per month.
❄️ Winter (December-February) – Cooler but not harsh, with highs between 8°C and 10°C, and 8-9 rainy days per month.
Overall, Périgueux enjoys plenty of sunshine, with approximately 2,581 hours of sun per year. Summers are warm but not scorching, and winters are mild compared to many other parts of France.
Is Périgueux Well-Connected for Travel?
This is where things get tricky.
Périgueux has regional trains that connect it to other towns and cities in France, but it does not have a direct high-speed TGV line. Which means longer journeys often require at least one transfer. Travellers coming from Paris, for example, typically need to change trains along the way.
The nearest major international airport is in Bordeaux (158 km away), which means a 1.5 to 2-hour drive just to catch an international flight. There’s also Bergerac Airport (63 km away), but it has more limited flight options.
While Périgueux is certainly reachable by train and car, it is somewhat less directly connected to major transport hubs than some other cities in southwestern France.
What Life Is Like in Périgueux
So what would daily life in Périgueux actually feel like?
I would say the feeling starts with that it has a really interesting mix of being a rural medieval city. What I mean by that is that it has a layer of sophistication indicated by the types of shops and restaurants in centre and the interesting mix of architecture. Yet it retains the air of the rural agricultural countryside around it.
The weekly market at Place de la Clautre is one of the highlights of living here. Locals come to buy fresh produce, regional cheeses, foie gras, walnuts, and seasonal specialties from nearby farms.
Food culture is deeply rooted in this part of France. The Dordogne is famous for its gastronomy, and living in Périgueux means you’re surrounded by some of the best ingredients in the country. It even has 7 restaurants that are suggested by the Michelin guide with one getting a star rating, L’Essentiel.
The city also has a strong arts scene, something that really stood out to me. There are galleries, cultural festivals and creative communities that bring energy to the town throughout the year.
At the same time, Périgueux remains small enough that you quickly begin to recognise faces at the market or the local café. That sense of familiarity is something many people looking to relocate to France appreciate.
Life here isn’t flashy or fast paced but yet can be sophisticated if you want.
It seems to be about enjoying good food, beautiful surroundings, and a sense of community through the arts and many other community festivals and events.
Where to Stay When Visiting Périgueux
If you’re visiting to explore whether Périgueux could be a place to live, it’s worth spending at least a few days here to experience the rhythm of the town.
A few good accommodation options include:
- Boutique hotels in the historic centre
- Small guesthouses in the surrounding countryside
- Apartment rentals that let you experience daily life in town
You can browse current options here:
- Find hotels in Périgueux
- Compare holiday rentals in Dordogne
- Explore car rental options for exploring the region
Having a car is particularly useful, I’d even say necessary, while exploring the rest of the Dordogne region.
If you are going to be flying into Paris or Bordeaux and need to coordinate your flights, trains and car rentals Kiwi.com does a great job.
Other Towns to Consider in Dordogne
While Périgueux offers the advantages of a small city, the Dordogne region is also home to some of the most beautiful towns in France, many of which are perfect places to slow down and experience daily life beyond the major cities.
Here are a few places worth exploring if you’re considering living in Dordogne.
Bergerac
Bergerac sits along the Dordogne River and has a larger international community than Périgueux. The town is also closer to Bergerac Dordogne Périgord Airport, which offers flights to several European destinations. The historic centre is charming, and the surrounding wine country adds to its appeal.
Sarlat-la-Canéda
Sarlat is one of the most famous towns in the Dordogne. Its beautifully preserved medieval centre attracts many visitors, especially in summer. While tourism is strong here, the town offers stunning architecture and easy access to the Dordogne Valley’s castles and villages.
Brantôme
Often called the “Venice of the Périgord,” Brantôme is smaller and more intimate. Built around a river and abbey, it has a peaceful atmosphere and beautiful scenery. It’s a lovely option for those looking for a quieter lifestyle.
Limoges
While not in the Dordogne, Limoges is another interesting city to explore in the Nouvelle Aquitaine region, known for its ceramics heritage and vibrant arts culture.
Each town offers a slightly different balance of community, amenities, and lifestyle, which is why spending time exploring the region before choosing a base can be so helpful.
FAQ: Living in Périgueux
Some other questions people researching living in Périgueux have before deciding whether the town could suit their lifestyle are below. If you have any other questions not answered here, let me know in the comments!
Is Périgueux a good place to retire in France?
Périgueux can be a good option for retirement, particularly for those looking for a slower pace of life. The town offers good local markets, healthcare facilities, cultural activities, and easy access to the Dordogne countryside. Its smaller size also means daily errands and social activities are easy to manage without the intensity of larger cities.
How expensive is it to live in Périgueux?
Compared to larger French cities such as Bordeaux or Toulouse, the cost of living in Périgueux is generally lower. Housing prices are more affordable, and everyday expenses such as dining, markets, and local services tend to be reasonably priced for the region.
Are there expats living in Périgueux?
Yes, although the international community in Périgueux is smaller than in some Dordogne towns such as Bergerac. Many expats are drawn to the region for its countryside lifestyle, historic villages, and strong food culture.
Do you need a car if you live in Périgueux?
Within the historic centre of Périgueux, many daily activities can be done on foot thanks to the compact layout and pedestrian-friendly streets. However, a car is helpful if you want to explore the wider Dordogne region, including nearby villages, markets, and countryside attractions.
Got thoughts, questions, or just want to say hi? Leave a comment below and let’s chat!